Tom Silva cut away a piece of the dining room ceiling so that we could get a sneak preview of our 141 year old ceiling. We were really excited (and slightly worried) about what we would find. A large part of this vision included removing the drop ceilings that were added to the first floor many years ago. One of the goals of the renovation was to create a more open feel to the home while preserving the character and charm of the period. More Posted by Malcolm Faulds | Categories: Arlington Italianate 2013-2014 | | Comments (2) About a week later I visited the site and saw how Tom scratches this kind of itch. I couldn't get much more out of him that day, but I knew he had an itch to scratch. We were about a month into the project and he was quiet. I knew something was on Tom Silva's mind. More Posted by Malcolm Faulds | Categories: Arlington Italianate 2013-2014 | | Comments (8)
#ASK THIS OLD HOUSE MAGAZINE CRACK#
We went with the flat stock profiles, and handed the design over to Tom and Norm to take a crack at making them on site. Personally I liked the way the Geometric scheme picked up the angles of the house, but I was overruled. Here are the four options he came back with. So we asked our architect, David Whitney, to work up some options for a railing (or balustrade). It had many lovely details, but the front porch was a bit bare. Polish with fine-grit sandpaper between coats, and wipe down with a tack cloth.We had long felt that our house was missing something in the front. Apply several coats of a brilliant-quality enamel, such as Fine Paints of Europe’s oil-based Hollandlac. To get this European look, chip away loose paint, and sand with at least three successively finer grades of sandpaper, until the finish is smooth to the touch. Refresh as necessary with additional varnish coats. (Use marine-grade spar varnish for an exterior door ordinary polyurethane will yellow and crack quickly when exposed to sunlight and damp.) Then apply multiple coats of a good quality varnish. Allow to dry for 24 hours before applying a second coat.Īfter applying the final coat, let dry for two days. The longer you let the stain soak in, the darker the finish it will be. Allow to dry thoroughly.īrush on the stain, blending the edges with light, overlapping strokes. Wipe with a tack cloth.Ĭover the entire surface of the door with a clear wood preservative such as boiled linseed oil, starting with the molding and edges, then the flat surfaces. Strip and/or sand away any existing varnish, using successively finer sandpaper and an orbital sander.
#ASK THIS OLD HOUSE MAGAZINE HOW TO#
See more videos like this at How to Paint a House Right. Watch the Video: How to Paint a Paneled Entry Door Allow two days’ drying time before resanding and cleaning prior to adding a third coat.Īllow another two days before reattaching the door or removing the painter’s tape. Sand the first coat lightly with 220-grit sandpaper and clean with a tack cloth before applying a second coat. Apply paint to an unpainted part of the door and brush back into wet paint. Clean with a tack cloth.Īpply the first coat of finish paint with a quality-bristle brush, using the same stroke method. Let dry, then sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Paint the door with wood primer, starting at a top corner and working toward the floor, then painting the other side, including the edges. Painted FinishĬhip away any loose paint and sand surface with 80-grit sandpaper so that the surface will hold new paint. Otherwise, mask all hardware with painter’s tape. Before you start any of these refinishing projects, remove the door and all fittings and lay it flat across sawhorses to work, if possible.
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